Setting Trends for the 2025-2026 Season

The world of fine jewelry is constantly evolving, and setting—the very heart of artisanal excellence—naturally follows the major trends of the industry. For the 2025-2026 season, three key directions are emerging, led by the great jewelry houses and embraced by specialized workshops.

The Return of Vintage and Old Cuts

Antique-cut diamonds are making a strong comeback. Old mine cuts or old European cuts, with their larger facets and distinctive brilliance, are once again in the spotlight. Tiffany & Co. recently illustrated this revival with creations inspired by its 19th-century archives, celebrating the unique imperfections that tell a story. Cartier and Boucheron also highlight these cuts in emblematic pieces, giving their collections a sense of heritage and authenticity.

The Boldness of Geometric Shapes

Marquise, pear, and emerald cuts continue to dominate the high jewelry scene. These shapes demand highly specialized setting expertise to ensure both the stone’s protection and its optimal brilliance. Harry Winston and Graff have made such cuts signatures in their spectacular pieces, where the gemstone takes center stage. This trend underscores the pursuit of timeless elegance combined with technical precision.

The Rise of Colored Gemstones

Diamonds are no longer the only protagonists. Colored gemstones—emeralds, sapphires, and tanzanites—are increasingly in demand. Chopard, with its “Red Carpet” collection, and Van Cleef & Arpels, with its floral creations, perfectly embody this shift towards vibrant color. Innovative settings now play a vital role in enhancing the intensity and brilliance of these gems.

Responsible Innovation

Finally, sustainability is becoming integral to fine jewelry. Hermès and Cartier, for example, emphasize ethical sourcing and new practices in gemstone presentation. This translates into new challenges for setters, who must now combine tradition and innovation while meeting stricter traceability standards.

Setting is more than a technical craft—it is the expression of a dialogue between aesthetic trends, material choices, and the vision of major jewelry houses. For the 2025-2026 season, the marriage of heritage and modernity is more evident than ever, with a return to antique cuts, bold geometric forms, the rise of color, and a growing emphasis on responsibility.